Category Archives: Memory

Walking and the imagination in London

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On our last day in London we left the hostel in Knightsbridge, not far from the Natural History Museum, and walked across Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park before making our way past Buckingham Palace, the Houses of Parliament, through to Whitehall and eventually up to Leicester Square, Chinatown, and Covent Garden. I realised as I walked that although I have been to London a number of times in the past fifteen or so years, I don’t think I have walked those particular streets, and past those particular sights, since a primary school trip to the capital in what must have been 1989 or 1990. I had sudden flashbacks, such as walking past Baden Powell House, or Westminster Abbey, that took me right back to that school trip, and memories that I would have presumed were long forgotten.

The other thing about walking through these most famous of London cityscapes, along with all my fellow tourists from around the world, was how familiar it all was. How many times have I seen the Houses of Parliament, on the news credits or on a bottle of brown sauce? So many time that it was only standing there looking at it in the flesh that I considered how preposterous the architecture of the place actually is, whilst trying to imagine how it was in the days of the plague and the Great Fire when the river was so polluted and foul that they had to hang chlorine-soaked sheets in the windows of the Parliament to try and alleviate the smell. I heard that story on one of the archive editions of In Our Time that I had downloaded to listen to before the trip, trying to get a crash course in London history as I waited on the S-Bahn platform at 5 in the morning for the train to the airport.

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Special places and the joy of the familiar

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With this post Under a Grey Sky reaches the milestone of two hundred articles, all published in just over a year, and featuring the words and pictures from contributors all over the world. It is the variety that has made this such an inspiring project to work on, as people have used the space here to talk about and document the type of the places that inspire them when they take a step out of the front door.

For the two hundredth post, then, I wanted to dwell a little not only the places that are special to me, but also those that have a meaning beyond perhaps an obvious beauty or an exotic location. They are the places related to personal history, to moments in the memory, that may also be special to others but not necessarily so. In his book, “The Wild Places”, Robert Macfarlane discusses this very issue;

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A Moment in Time

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By Chris Hughes

I have recently digitised my old colour slide collection and the moment came when I was certain all of them had been saved and the large pile of card and film was now completely redundant. It was still some days before I could finally take them to the bin, finally cast them in and know that the step was irreversible. I am now part way through scanning old photographs and while some have gone straight from scanner to shredder many of these are kept as the look and the feel of the old photograph cannot be replaced by the computer image, no matter how much I am able to improve it with the magic of Photoshop. These treasures will carry on until another generation makes the decision to cast them into the wheelie bin.

But…… some images have stuck in my mind as I have gone through this sorting process…

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The Joys of Essex

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(above: Essex Marsh, by Diana Hale)

By Diana Hale:

Jonathan Meades‘ recent BBC4 programme ‘The Joy of Essex‘, replete with characteristic provocations, utopian visions and other little known eccentricities, inspired me to relive some of my own joys of Essex, searching out paintings and photographs and taking advantage of an opportunity for some biogeography, or topography of the self. Not difficult as I was actually born there, or at least in what used to be Essex, as was everything east of the River Lea at one time.

Although my birth certificate says the London borough of Redbridge as that was where the hospital was, in fact my parents were living with my grandparents in Buckhurst Hill, in the Epping Forest district of Essex. Appropriately, as it was where my father’s family had ended up, it is not far from Hale End (on the map between Walthamstow and Chingford).  Incidentally there is now a new Hale village next to Tottenham Hale, not that far away from Hale End and not far from where I now live – a pleasing circularity. ‘Hale’ apparently means ‘a hollow place’ in Old English so I think there are plenty around.

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Point Zero and Moscow’s Red Square

A recent survey in Russia suggested that over two thirds of Russians want Lenin’s embalmed body removed from Red Square, at a time when the mausoleum is closed for renovation and speculation is rife as to what the future holds for the former Soviet leader. It is almost exactly five years since we stood on the cold expanse of cobblestones on a grey February day, and the mausoleum was closed for repairs that day as well, just a week before the election that saw Putin replaced as President by Medvedev. Putin is back in charge again, and he recently appears to have come down in favour of leaving Lenin exactly where he is.

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Memory and memorials in Berlin

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Sunday 27th January is International Holocaust Remembrance Day, an event with obvious resonance here in the German capital. It has been cold over the past few weeks, with temperatures falling below zero and snow on the ground, snow which covered the slabs of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe when Katrin went by on Thursday to take some photographs. The Memorial was subject to a lot of debate at its time of building, and has since been joined by nearby memorials to Homosexual victims of the Holocaust, as well as the more recent memorial to the Roma and Sinti who perished at the hands of the Nazi regime. All cities have memorials to their past, sometimes glorious and glorifying, other times reflective and sorrowful. Berlin has so many you fear that you will start to look through them, to no longer reflect on what they mean and what they stand for as they  become simply part of the fabric of the city.

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Memories of the road, USA

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By Anja Ahrens:

We were only in the United States for two weeks – a flying visit really – and we had decided to spend three of those days driving through the desert. With a four year old child and my in-laws in the back seat. Everyone said we were crazy, and maybe we were. But we loved it. During those days on the road I understood how fascinating the mountains can be, how the desert does not stay the same (as you might imagine) but instead the landscape was changing every twenty minutes, or with every bend in the road. The back seat passengers were happy and so were we.

My memories of that trip begin with the turn off along the old Route 66 and an abandoned town, my son playing cowboys amongst the buildings before it was time to hit the road again towards the Grand Canyon. We drove along a dead straight road for hours, passing only a lonely hotel and an airstrip to deliver those tourists who flew in rather than driving across the desert. We got to the canyon with fifteen minutes before nightfall, the amazed guard of the National Park surprised that we wanted to enter. Within less than an hour all daylight had gone, an incredibly fast process that we were not used to, and so we picked our way through the darkness to find our hotel.

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The dead remind us – the Memorial to the Socialists, Berlin

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“Freiheit ist immer Freiheit der Andersdenkenden”
(Freedom is always the freedom of the one who thinks differently) – Rosa Luxemburg

Alexanderplatz was frozen and empty on Sunday morning, the shops shuttered against the cold wind that seemed to be blowing in directly from Siberia along the Karl-Marx-Allee. From the station in the shadow of the TV Tower we climbed down the stairs to the underground line east, catching the U5 to Lichtenberg. It was busy, surprisingly so for a Sunday morning. But the occasional rolled and red flag leaning against the side of the carriage, or the more common sight of a bunch of red carnations carried in gloved hands told the story of all this early morning activity. At Frankfurter Tor half the carriage emptied, at Lichtenberg the other half did likewise. Different departure points but they – we – all had the same destination in mind; the Memorial to the Socialists at the Friedrichsfelde Cemetery.

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At the Christmas Market

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I am an unashamed fan of the Christmas Market, whether it is a small collection of wooden stalls in an cobblestoned square of some small town, or one of the countless versions that we can enjoy here in Berlin, and the four weeks of advent during which they operate is one of the highlights of my year. There is one particular market in Berlin, in the shadow of the opera house, that is called the “Nostalgie Markt” or nostalgia market, which got me thinking the other day as I strolled through the wooden huts, past the glühwein stands and intricate little wooden handicrafts, the smell of roasting chestnuts mingling with the meat on the grill as the big wheel turned against the backdrop of a Plattenbau, that in the end, aren’t all Christmas Markets “Nostalgia Markets” in a certain way?

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Songs of the grillman, Croatia

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Memories of a trip to Croatia:

“When we get around this corner, I promise… something you will never forget.”

We are rounding the southern tip of Kornati Island. Gradually a cove appears, surrounded by rocky hills that fall steeply into clear, turquoise waters. We see masts of a number of sailing boats. A couple of houses around a small harbour. Small fish swim alongside the boat, just under the surface of the water. Smoke rises from a chimney. We’ve reached our mooring for the night.

According to Darko, the skipper of our hired boat, this is the only way to reach the Restaurant Opat, unless you fancy an epic hike across the rubble-strewn moonscape of the island. The island looks as if it is exactly how nature created it, although we learn later that it was once covered in forest which was burned down to create grazing land for sheep. Stone walls that hemmed them in remain, oftentimes the only sign of human life. The sheep have long gone.

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