Back home from a walk along the Kurfürstendamm, West Berlin’s most famous street, I search the bookshelves for Joseph Roth. I have been to the Ku’damm many times, but never explored its entire length, and I want to know what the master of observation thought. With my feet aching a little from the adventure, the following passage jumped off the page:
“And so the Kurfürstendamm stretches out endlessly day and night. Also, it’s being renovated. These two facts need to be emphasized, because of the way it’s continually ceding particles of its true self to its designated cultural-historical role. Even though it never stops being “a major traffic artery”, it still feels as though it weren’t a means to an end but, in all its length, an end in itself” – Joseph Roth, What I Saw.
It still does. Predictions of the “death of the West” have come and gone over the past two decades since the fall of the Wall, as attention on the city moved across the Tiergarten to the historic centre of the city, but whenever I return to the Kurfürstendamm – infrequently – I am always struck by the fact that the street and the neighbourhood around it are doing fine thank you very much, regardless of the hype and the development going on over in Mitte.









