Category Archives: Diary

A brush with Istanbul

Istanbul

By Katrin Schönig:

I did not have long in Istanbul, little more than scratching the surface as I was in the city for work, but the short time I had convinced me that I want to return, to delve deeper into a place where the mix of the traditional and the modern is so inspiring. You walk through the streets, and watch people rush into the nearest Gucci store as the call to prayer sounds from a nearby mosque. In the Grand Bazaar the vendors are sitting on their small chairs, sipping one tea after the next, all the while talking quickly into their mobile phones. Istanbul is so alive, and at the same time packed with fascinating history.

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A walk along the Panke, at the edge of winter

A few Saturdays ago I was invited north from our (west Berlin) neighbourhood of Wedding to the north, and our friends in the (east Berlin) district of Pankow. These two once stood on opposite sides of the wall, but even through those long years of division they were linked by the bridge on the Bornholmer Straße, which would be the first breach in the structure on that famous November evening in 1989, as well as the waters of the Panke that run south from its source just beyond the Berlin city limits, through Pankow to Wedding and eventually into the River Spree. It also runs past our house, so it seemed like the most logical (and traffic free) way to head north, following the footpath and the neatly painted signs that mark the route of the Panke Way.

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A Belfast Diary

We have been back from our trip to Belfast for a couple of weeks now, and alert readers will have already seen a short piece on a walk to the Black Mountain with its wonderful views out across the city and beyond. More on that in a moment. We had a week in Belfast, four years after our last visit – which itself came after a string of annual, autumnal trips that all seem to blend together in the memory. So it is hard to remember exactly when, during the period of 2005-2008 that we went on the walking tour up the Falls Road, explored the murals of West Belfast, wandered amongst the chaos of the Halloween celebrations in Derry, or got out of town to a windswept and beautiful stretch of the Donegal coast…

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Görlitzer Park, Berlin

It is a November Sunday in Görlitzer Park, Kreuzberg. One of those days when it never gets properly light, not really, and without much wind it feels as if weather itself has taken a day off. We drop off Lotte at a friend’s birthday party, and then walk back towards the U-Bahn through the park. It is not summer, so there are less people around, but nevertheless there is still some action. This is Kreuzberg, so there is the usual mix of punks, students, hipsters and Turkish kids. The drug dealers as well, still open for business whatever the weather.

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About the Balance of Things

By Annika Ruohonen:

I’ve been away. Living, like a friend so accurately put it. First east, then west. Exploring places, meeting people, embracing all that is new and precious, but also facing challenges, overcoming obstacles and testing my boundaries. I’ve learned so much and I’m grateful for all that makes me bigger and wiser. I have so much to tell you, as soon as I find the spot where to start. You know how things happen in a certain sequence, but then they eventually find a way to regroup when your experiences eventually get new meanings. Once there is a missed opportunity, then there is an unexpected opening. One soul dies, another one is born. When time passes, it does not seem important at all in which order everything took place. All you see is how it all interconnects.

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The Festival of Lights and a city of diversity, Berlin

Unter den Linden, the famous old boulevard in the heart of Berlin, is being ripped up in order to extend the U-Bahn from Alexanderplatz to the main train station, and perhaps it was the squeezing of the space that made the whole centre of the city feel jam packed on Friday night, as crowds wandered with eyes aloft at the various illuminations of Berlin’s Festival of Lights. I can only remember the street that busy during December and the Christmas markets, and so we struggled through the throng without even the promise of a bratwurst or a mug of glühwein as a reward at the end.

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Sunday morning in the Britzer Garten, Berlin

Berlin has so many wonderful green spaces, from the Tiergarten in the heart of the city to the forests that occupy the edges though very much within the city limits, so perhaps it is not so surprising that it took me the best part of ten years to find my way south of the Ringbahn to the district of Neukölln and the Britzer Garten. The garden was created for the Federal Flower Show in 1985, and although it still charges a small admission, it is clearly used by Berliners from this corner of the city as their local park. Indeed, as we were trying to find our way from the bus stop to the entrance, an old lady guided us expertly whilst telling us that this was already the 32nd time she had visited this year. I guess at that rate, the season ticket pays for itself.

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Morning on the Alexanderplatz, Berlin

 “Alexanderplatz is both the GDR capital’s architectural centre and the city’s central point of attraction and a favourite meeting place where thousands of Berliners and people visiting the city meet every day at the World Time Clock for a walk in the new socialist city centre.”

(From the 1980 guidebook, Berlin: Capital of the GDR)

Twenty-three years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, people still use the clock as a meeting point. The House of the Teachers is still adorned with a suitably inspiring, socialist mural, and the television tower still gazes down upon the whole scene. But much else has changed on the Alexanderplatz. The old Centrum Department Store is now the Galeria Kaufhof and got a facelift eight years ago, the Pressecafe is now a steak house, and the old Interhotel Stadt Berlin has had a couple of new names even in the time I have been in the city. Even some post-Wall changes, such as the text from Döblin’s Berlin Alexanderplatz that once graced the facades of the buildings on Karl-Marx-Allee have now faded, although if you look closely you can still see the outline of some of the letters washed away by time and the elements.

In the past ten years the re-development of Alexanderplatz and the surrounding area has accelerated, with the opening of the enormous Alexa shopping mall and the new Saturn building on the edge of the square. The tram lines have been re-laid and all the major international shops and fast-food outlets can be found somewhere around the square. But if the area is no longer a “new socialist city centre”, the echoes of the German Democratic Republic and the brave new heart of (one half) of the city that was built out of the ruins of the Second World War in the 1960s can still be heard.

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Hiking at Lake Kukuljärvi, Finland

By Annika Ruohonen

Finns who live by the sea like to celebrate the last weekend in August as the last weekend of summer. We call it Venetsialaiset, the Venetians and to celebrate it most people like to go boating or spend time in their summer cottages. It is a celebration of water, fire and light. Due to the midnight sun, most summer nights aren’t dark here at all, and that is why August nights are special for us – dark and warm nights with the sound of crickets and the mirror like reflections of fireworks and bonfires on waters.

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Where the wall was the water, Berlin

Yesterday I headed south to walk a stretch of the Berlin Wall Trail, between Griebnitzsee station and Wannsee. Heading south first by U-Bahn and then by S-Bahn we rocked along through the city in full train carriages, as people made their way to school, university or work. I was amazed at how many people disembarked at Griebnitzsee, but at the bottom of the steps down from the platform they turned right towards the University of Potsdam buildings, and within a matter of seconds I was standing virtually alone down by the water’s edge.

This footpath was once patrolled by East German border guards, and where a hotel now stands a watchtower gazed out across the water towards the thick trees of West Berlin on the opposite bank. Like along so many stretches of the Berlin Wall Trail, a cluster of cherry trees – a gift from the people of Japan to the people of Berlin – cast some shade across the footpath.

“You should see them in blossom,” a gardener said, who had followed me down the steps. “Beautiful. It makes a mess, but it is beautiful.”

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