Category Archives: Diary

A walk through the dark, Belfast

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Or what happens when the lights go out… by John McGovern:

I didn’t really consider there would be any problem – the buses were running even though the streets were covered in March snow, our kitchen light was flickering but the rest of the power in the house was steady – I wasn’t even that cold.

It was when we got to the city centre that I started to worry.

“Er…where are we mate?”

“Power’s out all across the city.  This is Chichester St.  Last stop.”

And there was no-one else on the bus either.  I had noticed the extravagant blue glow of the Ulster Bank sign opposite the City Hall close to the 9A bus route – but it only served to confuse me further.  Now standing on the pavement, the dark created a collage of Belfast in my mind, as I scoured the charcoal buildings for familiar sights.

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Misty mornings in the Lake District, Cumbria

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By Matt Lancashire:

We recklessly chose to spend the end of February in the Lake District – statistically the wettest part of England – but were blessed with blue skies and t-shirt weather while the rest of the country got the cloud cover we were expecting. There was still snow on the mountains and broken ice washing down them into the lakes, but it was ideal weather for us, with misty mornings and red sunsets.

I’d not been before and my initial reaction was amazement at how the mountains appeared to have been upholstered with tweed, and how many beautiful shades of dusty brown there were. I kept stopping the car every ten minutes to get out and look at the view; partly because it kept surpassing the last view, and partly because the constant blind bends and bumps on the road made it too dangerous to gawp as I drove, even without the high-season crowds. Every mountain differed from the last and barren, rounded hills sit next to craggy, tree-covered slopes.

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A walk in Brandenburg, Germany

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The mist hangs between the tall, gloomy pine trees as we climb down from the train. Only one other passenger stepped off with us, and by the time we have sorted ourselves out on the platform she has disappeared into the haze. At the level crossing, where no cars wait for the train to depart, onwards towards the Polish border, the guesthouse is shuttered and locked. “Closed, for January and February” states a handwritten note in the window. No refreshments here, and we are glad that this is just the beginning, and that we are walking in the other direction.

We pick our way through the village to the river, which is glassy and still like the weather. Which way does the water flow? It is impossible to tell. The path leads us right along the water’s edge, the reeds springy underfoot. We pick our way along the bottom of holiday cottage gardens. Across the river is a field, the ground ploughed and hard into row after row of snow-capped ridges. We have moved away from the main road now, and there is little sound except for the occasional bird call or an airplane coming into land in the distance.

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A walk on the Contraviesa, Southern Spain

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By Sheila Scraton:

We were staying at our cortijo in the Alpujarras that lie to the south of Granada on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada. We had had a great family Christmas in Bad Saarow, Germany and were now enjoying unusually mild winter weather in Spain. Most people who know that we visit Spain seem to think that this means an escape from the cold weather of the UK and relaxation in warm Spanish sun. Whilst this can be the case, we have regularly experienced long icicles from our patio roof and deep snow making even access to the house a bit tricky.

However, this January we had two weeks of wonderful weather – blue sky and warm sunshine. The air temperature can be cool, we are at over 1500 m (above the height of our highest mountain in the UK, Ben Nevis, at 1344m) but this is more than compensated by the strong sun coming directly from the south and North Africa. Today we met up with our friend, Jeremy, who has lived and worked in the Alpujarras for 20 years as a walking guide. We were doing one of our favourite walks at this time of the year, along the Contraviesa, the mountain range between the Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a favourite winter walk because its mild location means that it’s not possible, or at least comfortable, to walk here in the summer months.  It is also the area that we look across to each day and evening from the patio of our cortijo, making it a nice change to reverse the view and look back to our village and the high mountains behind.

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Burning houses and a walk in the woods

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The third part of our Bad Saarow diary, in one of our favourite places only an hour or so by car or train from Berlin:

A lot of the joy of our trips to Bad Saarow is, as I mentioned in the first part of this diary, the joy of the familiar… returning to a place that you know well can be comforting as well as filling you with (hopefully) happy and positive memories. But I am always happy when you have the possibility to discover something new about a place that you thought was fully explored, and the small footpath we stumbled upon during our Boxing Day walk was one such happy discovery.

It was not long, perhaps a hundred metres or even less, that linked a small estate of houses set back from the main road and the footpath that follows the edge of the Wierichswiesen, a half-farmed marshland surrounded by villas that include the marital home of famous boxer Max Schmeling (who died in 2005, aged 99) and the family home of his wife, the actress Anny Ondra. They married in Bad Saarow in 1933, and moved into a villa overlooking this marshland following the ceremony. When that house burned down, having been hit by lightning, they moved into the house of Ondra’s mother. That too would burn down, twenty-odd years later; a fate that appeared to befall many of these villas around the marshland, and which perhaps explains why the fire station is only a single street away.

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The New Year in Belfast

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Last year on Under a Grey Sky Phil Scraton took us on a Saturday morning walk from his house in Belfast. After another such walk last weekend, he reflects on the current situation in the city:

It’s the 5th January, midwinter in Belfast. At this time of year the sun appears briefly above roof-tops before slipping away. Yet it warms my face as I walk through the park. It’s only 9.30am and the joggers are out in shorts and vests, the golfers cheerful in short-sleeved shirts, the birds singing prematurely anticipating Spring.

At this time two years ago the big freeze and sudden thaw wrecked the back of our house yet today the temperature reaches 13 Celsius. The Southern light breeze encourages walkers to remove gloves and scarves and busy squirrels are clearly content as their food comes easy.

Down on the Lagan the rowers are in full flow, instructions barked by megaphone from their cycling coaches. The water is like glass until disturbed by the bows of the sleek boats. There has been little rainfall for over a week but the river is tidal and high. A heron, startled by the kerfuffle rises from the overgrown riverbank and heads upstream.

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Christmas by the lake

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The second part of our Bad Saarow diary, from one of our favourite places only an hour or so by car or train from Berlin:

Through an open bedroom window I hear the sound of a family walking along the street outside. There is talk of a Christmas tree (perhaps they are even dragging it along as they speak) and excited chatter of presents anticipated, if only Father Christmas or time itself would get a move on. Downstairs Katrin, Lotte and Sean are making little pastry parcels, the potato salad sitting in a bowl on the countertop, all part of our mingle-mangled Anglo-German Christmas traditions that have, over the last couple of years, all fallen into place.

Once the pastries are made we will go for another walk down to the lake, the main road through the village busy with drivers that had to work on Christmas Eve and are now rushing home to the fireside and the family. And it does feel overly festive out on the streets, with the twinkling lights on the trees by the station, the smell of wood-smoke in the air, and the family down the street from our house that have lit a fire in their driveway and are standing around it with steaming mugs of glühwein in their hand.

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A Bad Saarow Diary

The snow began to fall as we left Berlin. The car was so packed full – of presents, food and drinks – that there was not space for us all to travel along the autobahn together, so half of the party made the short underground hop to Alexanderplatz and the regional train east. The Saturday before Christmas, and the train was filled with returnees, leaving the capital or coming in from further afield, to make their way out to the towns and villages that sit amongst the lakes and the trees between Berlin and the Polish border. On the seats opposite us two young women chatted with the distanced familiarity of old friends who have not seen each other for a while, scattered during term time to universities elsewhere in Germany but brought together for the holidays, coincidentally climbing aboard the same carriage on the train home.

We were, on the other hand, escaping. A week in the countryside to fill the festive period. A house by the railway tracks, not far from the lake. I had been looking forward to it since the moment we landed upon the idea. But in a way, it felt like a return for us as well, to this small town that has become our bolt-hole from the city on more than one occasion, to this house we have stayed in before. At Fürstenwalde we changed over from the top-heavy double-decker regional train to a single carriage that would take us to Bad Saarow, a train that is smaller than the trams that rumble along the Osloer Straße beneath our bedroom window, but that is all part of the charm of the trip. As it rolled south through the forests, wet snow splattering against the window, I was happy that the car had been full and we had been forced to take the train.

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Berlin: A winter diary

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People like to moan about the winter here in Berlin. From about the middle of September, or whenever the supermarkets break out the Christmas chocolate – whichever comes first – the grumbles of a city fully used to an expecting sixth months of grey skies, dark afternoons and cold, cold, cold temperatures begin to sound. When it finally comes, with the first cold snap of minus temperatures or the initial dumping of a load of snow that sends taxis sliding down the street and kids temporarily insane with the possibilities, people walk hunched and huddled against the biting winds that come, of course, from Russia, and look for sanctuary in the cozy cafes or the warmth of their own apartments. I think it is why Christmas is such a big deal, bringing light, cheer and mulled wine to the streets that lifts the mood for a month or two before it is all of a sudden January and – then – most brutally of all, February. Somehow the shortest month of the year always feels the longest.

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A slow train through the snow

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We want to get home, to our attic apartment and the Christmas tree, but as we leave our friends’ house in Leipzig the snow that has been falling since early morning is coming down ever heavier, and at the tram stop the electronic board keeps shifting, first five minutes, then six, then four, then six again, and it is only when we see two headlights appear through the near-blizzard that we are sure we will even make it to the train station. The tram itself is packed and steaming, a wet dog smell and slush rapidly melting at our feet, and it creeps forward through a city where visibility is down to a couple of metres. Finally the station appears, looming above us, and we brave the crowds and the gathering of smokers who stand, huddled around the warmth of their glowing cigarette tips, towards the platforms and the slow train north to Berlin.

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